Proper training is crucial when driving any type of vehicle. In the case of ATVs, safety training is a MUST before you ride these powerful, versatile machines! ATVs are not toys, and they must be handled with respect. With proper training and use of common sense, however, they can be a ton of fun to ride!
In the interactive online ATV Safety Course you will learn the basics in becoming a safer and more responsible ATV rider. You will also learn why the sport is currently on the rise, and how to help secure the future of ATV riding.
Topics that are covered in the course:
* Parts of an ATV
* Basic ATV Maintenance
* Safety Gear
* Safe riding practices
* Basic riding skills
* More advanced ATV riding skills
* Techniques for riding on different terrains
* The ABC’s of responsible ATV riding
* Basic wilderness survival techniques
* Basic First Aid methods
* ATV license
Courses are convenient and the certification exam is approved by state agencies responsible for ATV safety and education regulations in the state. Once you have passed the final exam, you will be able to print out a temporary certificate, so you can get out on the ATV trails right away! Your permanent ATV license will be sent to your home within a few weeks time.
Visit ATV Course for all your certification needs!
Follow Us as we start our newest drag bike project. We’ll be posting updates Images and details as this build rolls on. Be sure to post your comments and suggestions.
It´s one debate that doesn´t seem to be going anywhere fast. If you´re buying a brand new winch like the Superwinch Terra 45 or maybe it is just time to replace your old cable. Which way do you go: steel or synthetic? Let´s take a look at the pros and cons so you can decide once and for all which is better for YOU.
Life of the Cable
After an extended period of time depending on use, a steel cable can start to crimp, get rust spots or develop frayed strands of steel cable which can give you nasty cuts and also decrease the reliability of the cable. In the short term, the steel cable can take a lot more abuse than the synthetic variety. However, synthetic cables can have a much longer life. That is of course only if it is taken care of and carefully prevented from fraying on the edges. Fraying edges on a synthetic cable is the beginning of the end for this more costly type of cable. The more affordable steel cables might be more attractive for the rugged wincher who doesn´t mind replacing a steel cable at the first signs of wear.
Potential and Kinetic Energy
You don´t need to be a science major to recognise the danger of a cable under extreme tension. Whether it is due to overbearing the cable or a replacement cable is well overdue, it can be a potentially very dangerous situation. In terms of this, Synthetic is generally the winner as it doesn´t become a dangerous projectile. It is also easier on the hands and actually provides more pull per inch. Bear in mind however, that your maximum pulling power is still limited by the winch you select. It´s downside is that if it is in contact with a sharp edge, it has the possibility of slicing or fraying the edges, which is very unlikely with a steel cable.
Some users of synthetic cable have made complaints about UV damage causing weakness that leads to a decrease in strength. Newer synthetic lines are being manufactured UV resistant, and a winch cover is also a cheap solution to this problem.
About 95% of new winches are being shipped by their companies with standard steel winch cables. This can be taken as just because they are the cheaper option of the two for them to make the most profit, or a signal that it is still the best choice of cable.
As I mentioned before, Synthetic does provide you with more pounds per inch. Which means more pulling power for less cable. Even though pulling power is generally determined by the winch, check out this article with tips for both types of cables on how to double your pulling power.
Synthetic is the latest and more expensive cousin, that still has a few kinks to iron out before it really replaces steel cables completely.
Steel has been proven in every condition. It is tried and tested and cheaper. For reliability and cost, definitely your cable of choice.
Sam is an ATV enthusiast and updates his adventure website with outdoor tips and articles, including a review on the Superwinch Terra 45 (1145220)
The muscular Brute Force 750 4×4 ATV picked up a ton of upgrades for the 2012 model. An Electric Power Steering (EPS) system is one of the biggest changes, but other new features like a more-powerful V-twin engine, new double-wishbone front suspension, six-spoke cast alloy wheels and new bodywork featuring wide-stance styling cues help share the load. HMF ATV exhaust systems have always responded well to the Brute Force engine. The 2012 model picks up a lot of horse power and torque, especially on the Swamp series.
The Swamp is great for it’s large mechanical core that directs and controls sound pulses to keep sound levels approximately 1-2 dB over stock.
The HMF Performance Series has a specially designed, unrestricted core that allows the exhaust to increase power evenly throughout the entire power curve. It also features the signature HMF sound with industry-leading end cap and color options, giving you a completely custom look.
Penland Pro Series
Backed by ATV legend Mike Penland, the Penland Series was developed for serious off road racers and trail riders striving to achieve more low end torque. The Penland features the same core as the Performance Series, but features the removable TRM that allows quads to hook-up in rough conditions.
Swamp XL Series
The younger brother of the Swamp Series, the Swamp XL Series (extra loud) offers anywhere between 1-2 more horse power than the standard Swamp Series. What makes the Swamp XL different than the Swamp Series is the non-restrictive core that produces very high dB sound levels.
Each HMF Exhaust:
Includes a USFS Approved Spark Arrester. Includes a 2 Year Limited Manufacturer’s Warranty.
Is made of high quality Aluminum, Stainless Steel, or Carbon Kevlar. Packed with high performance glass wool packing.
Includes Installation Instructions. Manufactured in the U.S.A.
Whenever you add an after-market exhaust system to your machine, tuning your carburetor is, in most cases, an absolute necessity. The proper jets and EFI settings are extremely important for the performance and lifespan of your machine.Tuning Kits are available to
ensure your machine runs at it’s top performance and your HMF Warranty remains valid.
I decided that it was time to install a new muffler on my 2004 Yamaha Grizzly, and with all the choices out there, HMF had a nice slip on assembly that seemed to be widely used, and suggested when surfing the web. Below is my review from start to finish, what it entailed, and an overall review of the installation procedure, tuning, and after thoughts.
First off, I was impressed with the packaging that HMF uses. The pipe and muffler were very well cushioned within the box. The hardware and instructions came in plastic packaging, along with a small aluminum or tin HMF marked box, which holds a few different size carburetor jets. Jetting is necessary for proper performance and warranty, as per their website. This was going to be the first time this quad was going to be jetted or have anything really done to it outside of oem.
The first thing I did was lay out my parts and grab the tools I needed. There was going to be 2 steps here, exhaust install and re-jetting the carb per HMF recommendations. So I decided to tackle the exhaust install first. I removed the plastic panels from both sides of the quad, removed the seat also, to expose the air box. The actual pipe and muffler
looked to be an easy removal with a clamp on the engine pipe/header, and one frame bolt at the muffler. I proceeded to try and loosen the muffler bolt, and then it snapped! That set me back a little in time, but was an easy fix, as I tapped the remaining portion of the broken bolt out with a steel punch. I then removed the clamps from the header pipe, and slid the old exhaust off. The HMF pipe slides right into the muffler and all you need to do is attach the tension spring to keep them together as one unit. I slid the slip on unit in through the back and onto the engine pipe, then installed the clamps. I aligned it up and installed a new bolt and nut on the rear muffler frame bracket. That’s it! Took less than 30 minutes (not counting the broken bolt) to install this slip on exhaust.
My next step was to jet the carb with the included 175 main jet as recommended here: HMF Specs . I loosened the carb clamps and a few bolts, then pulled the air box out of the way. I rotated the carb enough to expose the bowl without removing completely. (The proper way of course would be to remove the entire carb and take it to a bench..) I proceeded to take out the 4 carb bowl screws, and 2 out of 4 stripped out. I couldn’t get them out. I finally was able to remove the stripped screws with the help of some needle nose vise grips. I ordered a new gasket and new screws. However, I took the advice of a fellow member (Dirt Demon), and
bought some allen head screws from Home Depot to use instead. I removed the factory main jet and installed the one that came with the HMF kit. Worked out well.
I buttoned it all back together, and started it up. Wow, what a difference in sound. Much “throatier” and in my opinion sounds awesome. I don’t have a dyno to test, but it definitely feels much more responsive and definitely has more torque. It sounds real nice, check out the before and after video I posted to see for yourself. I’m very impressed with the ease of installation and the actual look and sound of this muffler. I definitely recommend this exhaust. Maybe my next step will be a high flow air filter and new jet! HMF Exhaust http://www.hmfracing.com
You can chack out my threads on this install in the forums.
InlandATV: Check out our website for new quads, bikes and sidexside’s updated daily!