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ATV Safety Course

Proper training is crucial when driving any type of vehicle. In the case of ATVs, safety training is a MUST before you ride these powerful, versatile machines! ATVs are not toys, and they must be handled with respect. With proper training and use of common sense, however, they can be a ton of fun to ride!

In the interactive online ATV Safety Course you will learn the basics in becoming a safer and more responsible ATV rider. You will also learn why the sport is currently on the rise, and how to help secure the future of ATV riding.

Topics that are covered in the course:

* Parts of an ATV
* Basic ATV Maintenance
* Safety Gear
* Safe riding practices
* Basic riding skills
* More advanced ATV riding skills
* Techniques for riding on different terrains
* The ABC’s of responsible ATV riding
* Basic wilderness survival techniques
* Basic First Aid methods
* ATV license

Courses are convenient and the certification exam is approved by state agencies responsible for ATV safety and education regulations in the state. Once you have passed the final exam, you will be able to print out a temporary certificate, so you can get out on the ATV trails right away! Your permanent ATV license will be sent to your home within a few weeks time.

Visit ATV Course for all your certification needs!

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It´s one debate that doesn´t seem to be going anywhere fast. If you´re buying a brand new winch like the Superwinch Terra 45 or maybe it is just time to replace your old cable. Which way do you go: steel or synthetic? Let´s take a look at the pros and cons so you can decide once and for all which is better for YOU.

Life of the Cable

After an extended period of time depending on use, a steel cable can start to crimp, get rust spots or develop frayed strands of steel cable which can give you nasty cuts and also decrease the reliability of the cable. In the short term, the steel cable can take a lot more abuse than the synthetic variety. However, synthetic cables can have a much longer life. That is of course only if it is taken care of and carefully prevented from fraying on the edges. Fraying edges on a synthetic cable is the beginning of the end for this more costly type of cable. The more affordable steel cables might be more attractive for the rugged wincher who doesn´t mind replacing a steel cable at the first signs of wear.

Potential and Kinetic Energy

You don´t need to be a science major to recognise the danger of a cable under extreme tension. Whether it is due to overbearing the cable or a replacement cable is well overdue, it can be a potentially very dangerous situation. In terms of this, Synthetic is generally the winner as it doesn´t become a dangerous projectile. It is also easier on the hands and actually provides more pull per inch. Bear in mind however, that your maximum pulling power is still limited by the winch you select. It´s downside is that if it is in contact with a sharp edge, it has the possibility of slicing or fraying the edges, which is very unlikely with a steel cable.


Some users of synthetic cable have made complaints about UV damage causing weakness that leads to a decrease in strength. Newer synthetic lines are being manufactured UV resistant, and a winch cover is also a cheap solution to this problem.

Company Choice

About 95% of new winches are being shipped by their companies with standard steel winch cables. This can be taken as just because they are the cheaper option of the two for them to make the most profit, or a signal that it is still the best choice of cable.


As I mentioned before, Synthetic does provide you with more pounds per inch. Which means more pulling power for less cable. Even though pulling power is generally determined by the winch, check out this article with tips for both types of cables on how to double your pulling power.


Synthetic is the latest and more expensive cousin, that still has a few kinks to iron out before it really replaces steel cables completely.

Steel has been proven in every condition. It is tried and tested and cheaper. For reliability and cost, definitely your cable of choice.


Sam is an ATV enthusiast and updates his adventure website with outdoor tips and articles, including a review on the Superwinch Terra 45 (1145220)

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The muscular Brute Force 750 4×4 ATV picked up a ton of upgrades for the 2012 model. An Electric Power Steering (EPS) system is one of the biggest changes, but other new features like a more-powerful V-twin engine, new double-wishbone front suspension, six-spoke cast alloy wheels and new bodywork featuring wide-stance styling cues help share the load. HMF ATV exhaust systems have always responded well to the Brute Force engine. The 2012 model picks up a lot of horse power and torque, especially on the Swamp series.

Swamp Series

The Swamp is great for it’s large mechanical core that directs and controls sound pulses to keep sound levels approximately 1-2 dB over stock.

Performance Series

The HMF Performance Series has a specially designed, unrestricted core that allows the exhaust to increase power evenly throughout the entire power curve. It also features the signature HMF sound with industry-leading end cap and color options, giving you a completely custom look.

Penland Pro Series

Backed by ATV legend Mike Penland, the Penland Series was developed for serious off road racers and trail riders striving to achieve more low end torque. The Penland features the same core as the Performance Series, but features the removable TRM that allows quads to hook-up in rough conditions.

Swamp XL Series

The younger brother of the Swamp Series, the Swamp XL Series (extra loud) offers anywhere between 1-2 more horse power than the standard Swamp Series. What makes the Swamp XL different than the Swamp Series is the non-restrictive core that produces very high dB sound levels.

Each HMF Exhaust:

Includes a USFS Approved Spark Arrester. Includes a 2 Year Limited Manufacturer’s Warranty.
Is made of high quality Aluminum, Stainless Steel, or Carbon Kevlar. Packed with high performance glass wool packing.
Includes Installation Instructions. Manufactured in the U.S.A.

Don’t Forget:

Whenever you add an after-market exhaust system to your machine, tuning your carburetor is, in most cases, an absolute necessity. The proper jets and EFI settings are extremely important for the performance and lifespan of your machine.Tuning Kits are available to
ensure your machine runs at it’s top performance and your HMF Warranty remains valid.

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I decided that it was time to install a new muffler on my 2004 Yamaha Grizzly, and with all the choices out there, HMF had a nice slip on assembly that seemed to be widely used, and suggested when surfing the web. Below is my review from start to finish, what it entailed, and an overall review of the installation procedure, tuning, and after thoughts.

First off, I was impressed with the packaging that HMF uses. The pipe and muffler were very well cushioned within the box. The hardware and instructions came in plastic packaging, along with a small aluminum or tin HMF marked box, which holds a few different size carburetor jets. Jetting is necessary for proper performance and warranty, as per their website. This was going to be the first time this quad was going to be jetted or have anything really done to it outside of oem.

The first thing I did was lay out my parts and grab the tools I needed. There was going to be 2 steps here, exhaust install and re-jetting the carb per HMF recommendations. So I decided to tackle the exhaust install first. I removed the plastic panels from both sides of the quad, removed the seat also, to expose the air box. The actual pipe and muffler
looked to be an easy removal with a clamp on the engine pipe/header, and one frame bolt at the muffler. I proceeded to try and loosen the muffler bolt, and then it snapped! That set me back a little in time, but was an easy fix, as I tapped the remaining portion of the broken bolt out with a steel punch. I then removed the clamps from the header pipe, and slid the old exhaust off. The HMF pipe slides right into the muffler and all you need to do is attach the tension spring to keep them together as one unit. I slid the slip on unit in through the back and onto the engine pipe, then installed the clamps. I aligned it up and installed a new bolt and nut on the rear muffler frame bracket. That’s it! Took less than 30 minutes (not counting the broken bolt) to install this slip on exhaust.

My next step was to jet the carb with the included 175 main jet as recommended here: HMF Specs . I loosened the carb clamps and a few bolts, then pulled the air box out of the way. I rotated the carb enough to expose the bowl without removing completely. (The proper way of course would be to remove the entire carb and take it to a bench..) I proceeded to take out the 4 carb bowl screws, and 2 out of 4 stripped out. I couldn’t get them out. I finally was able to remove the stripped screws with the help of some needle nose vise grips. I ordered a new gasket and new screws. However, I took the advice of a fellow member (Dirt Demon), and
bought some allen head screws from Home Depot to use instead. I removed the factory main jet and installed the one that came with the HMF kit. Worked out well.

I buttoned it all back together, and started it up. Wow, what a difference in sound. Much “throatier” and in my opinion sounds awesome. I don’t have a dyno to test, but it definitely feels much more responsive and definitely has more torque. It sounds real nice, check out the before and after video I posted to see for yourself. I’m very impressed with the ease of installation and the actual look and sound of this muffler. I definitely recommend this exhaust. Maybe my next step will be a high flow air filter and new jet! HMF Exhaust

You can chack out my threads on this install in the forums.

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Can you really double the pulling power of your regular winch? Over the years I have discovered methods that might surprise you by how much they can increase the pulling power of your ATV winch. Following these simple tips might be the difference of getting out of a sticky situation and waiting for help.


The best solution is preparation. Get a good quality battery and maintain it. The largest your ATV can take with the most “Cold Cranking Amps” will give you the best initial pull. If your at maximum pull and your battery is struggling to provide power, keep the engine running and give the throttle a little gas to help the battery. I haven´t needed to in the past, but some guys install a second heavy duty battery dedicated for recovery. I prefer to go without the extra weight.

Snatch block and Cable

Use a snatch block to double the line. These things can single-handedly double your direct pulling power and assist in pulling from angles if need be. You will notice the pulling speed is slower, but don´t worry, the extra power you can squeeze out of your winch can be worth the wait in certain situations. The use of a snatch block also means for close pulls you can reach the ideal length of cable for the pull. One layer of cable (5 rolls) wrapped on the drum will pull securely and at maximum power. Winches are rated for their pull strength at this amount of cable on the drum. The angle of the cable leaving the drum should be perpendicular as well. If the cable is at an angle, the winch will not be working at capacity.

Pulling methods

Creating the path of least resistance will also dramatically increase the pulling power of your winch. Always angle the front tires of the stuck ATV in the direction of the pull. If possible, the stuck ATV should be driven towards the direction of the pull, but only at moderate throttle and start slow. Let the winch cool and power regenerate after 1.5 minutes of continuous use. Avoid damage and overheating to maintain the power and life of your winch.

If stuck in snow or mud, dig out around the tires and use twigs, sticks and brush to provide traction. Doing this right the first time might take an extra few minutes, but can save you hours.

Sam is an ATV enthusiast and updates his adventure website with outdoor tips and articles, including a review on the 4500lb Superwinch winch.

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When comparing dump carts for ATVs, you mostly find steel carts out there from various online retailers and places like Sears and Home Depot. My first choice a few months back was going to be to pick up one of those steel carts for my ATV, but then I was able to get my hands on Quadboss’s Swivel Dump Cart that has this hardened “Structual Foam” body that is rust proof.

This dump cart came in a large box which I snapped a picture of below. The contents of the box were the dump body, 2 wheels, frame, trailing arm, and hardware & pins. I spread the items out and followed the easy to read instructions. They illustrated every pin, nut, and bolt size, so that you know exactly where they are supposed to go. The steel frame parts of this cart are heavy duty 11 gauge steel, and along with the 1 inch axle, the load capacity is able to be set at 1,250 lbs. Assembly was pretty simple and took about an hour all together. The longest part of the install was attaching the dump body to the frame with 10 bolts. It would probably go quicker with 2 people, one holding the dump body and feeding the bolts, and the other holding the frame, and screwing on the nuts on. Once that part was done, the rest was pretty easy. I was impressed with the fact that the wheels had grease fittings for the wheel bearings. Once it was all put together, attachment was easy to my ATV hitch receiver hole with a supplied pin. You can use a hitch ball, but it’s not necessary.

Now it was time to test this thing. I took it out of the garage and around the property, over some bumps and a hill or two. It was very stable empty, so then I decided to do some work to fill her up. It was a nice day finally, most all of the snow had melted, and it was time to lay into some yard work. I had planned to dig out some dirt from one area and transport it to an area where I needed some more soil. I pulled up next to my mound of dirt and started digging. I filled the cart up with two loads and dumped them both in the area that needed the dirt. Dumping it requires you to step on the release mechanism pedal that has anti-slip spikes, and lift up the cart. I suppose if you fill it up with overweight stuff, it’s going to be a pain to lift it on your own. The dirt all came out except for the last 10% that I used my shovel to get out. The sloped rear on the dump is nice. Another nice feature is the swivel, which allows you to turn the dump up to 100 degrees before dumping.

So that was pretty easy, so I decided to load some other things around the property, like rocks, brush, twigs, and branches. This is where the optional fence attachment would have come in handy. I may need to get that next. I’m still waiting to take it up on the trails. I highly suggest this dump for anyone looking for a high quality work horse of a dump, as an alternative to the traditional steel carts.

QuadBoss Website

QuadBoss ATV Trailer Product Video

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The Toronto International Snowmobile, ATV & Powersports Show is all about having FUN and you will be entertained from the minute you walk into the Show. Meet your friends, tell tall tales, reminisce about last season’s best ride, buy a new Toy, book a trip, find the custom sled corner in the OSM booth, watch a snowmobile race or join the thousands of fans on hand to experience the thrill of the Freestyle Show.

No matter what reason you have for attending the ‘World’s Largest Snowmobile and ATV Show, we guarantee it will be worth the drive to get here. More displays featuring snowmobiles, ATVs, clothing, parts, accessories, trailers and more aftermarket Manufacturers and Distributors with more snowmobile and ATV related products on display than ever before.

This is a huge, quality ‘BUYING’ Show. So don’t be shy and step right up to some great savings. Visit any of the Exhibitors represented at the Show as they’re here to cater to you. They want to meet you and talk with you about their special products and services. Also on hand at the Toronto Snowmobile, ATV & Powersports Show is the 25,000 square foot Royal Distributing department store which is the largest exhibitor ever to grace the floors of the Toronto International Centre. We’re proud of this as they build this store every year just for you!

* Best Deals!
* Best Selections!
* Best Entertainment
* Free Parking
* Free Draws
* Free Seminars
* Free Snowmobile Rides for the Kid
* Free ATV Rides for the Kid
* Electric ATV Rides for the Tyke

* Driver Training Courses
* Buy your Permits
* Find out where you can ride your ATV
* Attend Snowmobile Races – Free
* Attend the Xtreme Freestyle Event – Free
* Over 500,000 square feet of snowmobile and ATV enthusiasm
* Largest group of snowmobilers to gather in one place
* Be a part of the ‘World’s Largest Snowmobile and ATV Show

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The folks at QuadBoss sent us a gallon of their famous ATV tire sealant to check out. It came in a cardboard box and in the form of a one gallon white bottle with an attachable pump. You basically take off the cap and then insert and screw on the pump assembly. The directions are printed out right on the bottle. To give you an idea of what this is supposed to do, here are some bullet points:

•Seals up to 1/2” puncture in the tread and 1/4” puncture in the sidewall
•Stops bead leaks and pinhole leaks in rims
•Will not solidify or freeze (above -33°F)
•Will not rust steel, corrode aluminum wheels or clog valve core
•Environmentally benign and water washable
•Works for the life of the tire

Just perfect for our older stock Dunlop tires that tend to leak small amounts of air. Keep in mind, It’s almost mid January and we’re here in the Northeast where temperatures dip down to the single digits at night. So since it’s not supposed to solidify or freeze, we gave it a go.

Installation is not hard. You will need a tire valve core remover, a tire pressure gauge, and an air source to replace the air you need to take out. We’ve got our little screw on valve core remover that the auto guys use and a shop air compressor to fill us back up quickly. We started by taking out all our valve stems, so that all the air would come out of the tires. We made sure the valves were positioned on the top side so that when the tire collapses from no air, you can still have access to the inside of the tire through the valve, with a clear entry way. After that, you just pump in the amount of sealant that you need. QuadBoss gives you a chart right on the bottle which says:

Utility ATV Tires (8″-12″ rims) 32 oz per tire
Sport ATV Tires (9″ – 10″ rims) 16 oz per tire
Dirt Bike Tires 4-8 oz per tire

Every pump stroke injects 1 ounce of sealant, so in our case it was 32 pumps per tire. After we pumped in the sealant, we screwed back in the vale cores, and inflated the tires back to manufaturer’s specs. Took the quad for a rip to evenly disburse the sealant. Did not affect the feel of the quad and one would never know the sealant was added. It’s a preventative measure for your tires, but in our case, we always saw a bit of a drop in tire pressure after a week. So we added this just before last week’s snow storm and took it out this week…tire pressure is all good. Looks like we added some life to our older stock tires and will definately be using this in our new tires down the road. We’re going to be interested to see how much air pressure fluctuation we get in our ATV tires when spring arrives. We’ll just have to wait and see, and send in an update.

You can find QuadBoss tire sealant on their website:

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Plaris RZR 900 XP

Dual-A-Arm front suspension with 13.5″ of travel soaks up the rough stuff. Match that with an astounding 13” of ground clearance and no comparison is required. Hands down, RANGER RZR XP™ owns the desert, the dunes and any wide open space.

NEW! Exclusive ITP® Tires Standard

Exclusive ITP 900 XCT TIRES – Standard on RANGER RZR XP™, the unique directional lug pattern provides exceptional cornering and straight-line traction capabilities.


NEW! Industry first factory LED headlights shine a high-intensity bright white beam to turn night into day, and throw light forward far beyond conventional halogens

Passenger-side glove box has 3 gallons of space for convenient, water-resistant storage.

NEW! Polaris ProStar™ 900 DOHC Twin EFI Engine
Specifically built for an extreme performance Side x Side. The Polaris ProStar™ 900 DOHC Twin EFI Engine features industry-leading 88 HP, Dual OverHead Cams (DOHC), large valves for high RPM power and 180 degree crank shaft for balanced performance, and fast throttle response to produce groundbreaking power and acceleration.

Everyone rides in comfort, thanks to adjustable and interchangeable bucket seats, plus the adjustable front passenger handrail and full rear passenger handrail. Comfortable driver operation is enhanced by tilt steering with the highest range of motion (10″).

Premium Fox Podium X 2.0 Shocks feature piggyback reservoir, adjustable preload and compression dampening.

We designed the all-new 3-Link Trailing Arm IRS to handle all that massive power and keep the ride smooth. The 3-Link design consists of two extra-long radius rods and a far forward-connecting trailing arm resulting in a strong yet lightweight system.


Engine Type 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder
Displacement 875cc
Fuel System Electronic Fuel Injection
Cooling Liquid

Transmission/Final Drive Automatic PVT P/R/N/L/H; Shaft
Drive System On-Demand True AWD/2WD

Front Suspension Dual A-Arm Fox Podium X 2.0 (comp adjust/res.) 13.5″ (34.3 cm) Travel
Rear Suspension Trailing Arm Fox Podium X 2.0 (comp adjust/res.) 14″ (35.6 cm) Travel

Front/Rear Brakes 4-Wheel Hydraulic Disc with Dual-Bore Front Calipers
Parking Brake Park in Transmission

Tires Wheels
Front Tires / Model 27 x 9-12; ITP 900 XCT
Rear Tires / Model 27 x 11-12; ITP 900 XCT
Wheels Cast Aluminum

Wheelbase 81.4″ (206.8 cm)
Dry Weight 1,190 lbs. (539.8 kg)
Overall Vehicle Size (LxWxH) 108.4″ x 64″ x 73″ (275.3 x 162.6 x 185.4 cm)
Ground Clearance 13″ (33.0 cm)

Fuel Capacity 7.25 gal (27.4 L)
Bed Box Dimensions (LxWxH) 23 x 38 x 10″ (58.4 x 96.5 x 25.4 cm)
Box Capacity N.A./300 lb (136.1 kg)
Payload Capacity 740 lb (335.6 kg)
Hitch Towing Rating N.A.
Hitch/Type None

Cargo System Lock & Ride
Lighting White LED, High/Low
Electronic Power Steering Not Equipped
Instrumentation Digital Gauge, Speedometer, Odometer, Tachometer, Tripmeter, Hour Meter, Clock, Gear Indicator, Fuel Gauge, Hi-Temp/Low-Batt Lights, Coolant Temp, DC Outlet

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California’s only ATV & UTV Jamboree held in the Eastern Sierras.


Walker CA, January 1st, 2011 – ATVs & UTVs will participate in guided rides to scenic and historic destinations in Toiyabe National Forest, June 15 – 189, during the only ATV & UTV Jamboree to be held in the Sierra Nevada.

This is the fourth year that the Eastern Sierra ATV & UTV Jamboree has been held.
Sponsored by the Northern Mono Chamber of Commerce, under permit from the USDA Forest Service, the Jamboree’s routes travel thru high desert plains and forests, along creeks, streams and lakes to ridge top views of the Sierra and Sweetwater Mountains. Scenic and historic destinations including Lobdell Lake at elevation 9500 feet, an abandoned log cabin and a mine dating from the early 1900s.

Three days of guided trail rides through some of the most beautiful lands around. Each trip is led by a local ATV guide who is experienced at traveling the routes. There are no “technical” rides, though each ride is rated from beginner to advanced. The rides last 5 – 8 hours and range from 50 to 100+ miles. Drivers must be 16 years old, though children under 16 can ride with an adult on an ATV or UTV capable of carrying two riders. New trails are expected this year in addition to the previous trails. Registration will open on February 1st, 2011.

The Eastern Sierra ATV & UTV Jamboree is limited to 150 riders and costs $125 per rider, including three full breakfasts, one Saturday evening dinner, t-shirt and other goodies.

Additional dinner tickets cost $12 per adult, $7.50 per children (12 and under) and free for children under two. More about the Eastern Sierra ATV & UTV Jamboree and rental ATVs can be obtained by calling 530-208-6078 or by visiting

Media Contact:
Tim Fesko, 530-208-6078

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